Arches to Canyons

We wake. The wind has gusted most of the evening with sporadic rain. We crawl out to greet the day: black skies to the north and patches of blue and early morning light to the south. After a quick breakfast we grab our gear and crawl back into the tent for a few minutes more as another cloud burst passes. It does, we pack and head back up the wash to rejoin the trail. At the water hole there’s a set of bird footprints, sunk surprisingly deep in the soft orange sand at the water’s edge.

Continuing on the primitive trail toward Dark Angel we hike the best of Arches: up sand stone fins, through crags and over rock humps. This trek would not have been possible for me without Jason’s helping hand when the grip of my shoes, my trust for that grip, and the angle of the rock did not align. Here and there we pass huge boulders fallen from the rocky cliffs as some layers of rock have strategically eroded before others. As we approach the joint with the more civilized trail we encounter more hikers. A pack of Boy Scouts is headed down a trail to a hidden arch. The boys hike silently as the two adult leader yell conversation back and forth, their voices echoing off the fins.

We reach the trail junction at Double-O arch. Most hike from the trail head to this point and turn back without making the final approach to Dark Angel. They miss some truly beautiful, fascinating terrain.  Jason and I explore the area around Dark Angel to admire the land and the stories it has to tell. We venture back to the trail junction and follow the more “civilized” trail for our return. This trail traverses its share of elevated fins and steep slick rock. At one point we encounter a large group of very scared, crying children coaxed up a rock fin by their adult leaders. The children look to be five or six years old. There’s a bottle neck on the narrow fin as no other hiker can pass until each child is coerced to yield one hand clinging for dear life to an adult below to carry them down.  Minutes later we approach Landscape Arch, the closest attraction to the trail head. The area is full of Asian tourists. Most of the women wear skirts or dresses and fashionable sandals. Many carry designer purses or handbags. They look entirely out of place at this wild, rocky, beautiful place. Further on, dozens of visitors approach, each wearing a red lanyard and conversing in French. Several are surprised when I cheerfully greet them with a “Bon jour!” in passing. I am returning a small kindness shown to me when I traveled in France.

Our adventures have carried us into the afternoon so we hurry on to grab a sandwich in north Moab and then dart back to the Islands in the Sky district of Canyonlands. It’s a long drive and Jason muses how nice it would be to not overplan our days for a change. Guilty as charged. The area for me is so filled with wonders I want to cram everything possible into each and every day. The flight home is the time to collapse from exhaustion and sleep! We reach the quiet welcome center. The rangers are helpful with information and confirm our backcountry permits. We visit the closest viewpoints for Shaffer Road overlook. At the first viewpoint, the road looks like fun–we’d consider that! Beyond the canyon stretches endlessly as little clouds add to the depth of the scene. At the next overlook we are able to see where the road makes steep switchbacks down the canyon wall. Yipes! No, this road we would not drive. Jason wondered aloud about what the road was actually anchored into. I really wanted Jason to see one of the further grand overlooks but we surrender to the clock and drive south to our bed and breakfast stay at the Red Moon Lodge. Our arrival interrupts a yoga class in the garden are but they are gracious about it. After quickly settling in, we return to Moab for a civilized dinner at the Broken Oar. Steak…medallions…tender and delicious. In that moment, our roughing-it trip becomes pure luxury. Back at the lodge we enjoy long, hot showers and a comfortable bed. Morning will bring another treat as our room comes with a fresh prepared hot breakfast!